Best Home Theater Projectors Report: Physical Tour
Here we provide brief information regarding how the home projectors are physically laid out, placement flexibility, and more.
4/4/13 - Art Feierman
Projector Physical Appearance
I'll tackle two areas in the Physical Appearance section, first, general layout. We can assume, unless otherwise noted, that all these projectors have adjustable feet (at least one pair), control panels on the top, and inputs on the rear. The lenses are typically mounted offset to one side or the other, so I will only mention it if it is a centered lens (easier for installation). Some have motorized zoom and focus, most have lens shift (manual or motorized), etc. All this is documented in each review, so in this section, a short paragraph, and a link to the appropriate page in the original review.
Speaking of appearances, the image above is a "beauty shot" of the Epson Pro Cinema 6010.
The projectors in this report vary a great deal in styling, anywhere from ugly box to highly stylish. Most of us don't care what a projector physically looks like with the lights on, but some do. Then there's the "wife factor" - "that thing's too big and ugly to go in my room". I'm not a judge of aesthetic beauty, so I'll just make a brief comment or two about some of the projectors of note:
All projectors this year have their inputs in the back with the exception of the Sonys
1080p Projectors under $2000
Acer H9500BD: A new entry, with a definite "cross-over" look, grays and silvers, a "box"
BenQ W1200: A box but a better looking one. Dark front, a other dark trim, mostly white. I like it. Two powerful speakers, audio out. Very solid feel.
BenQ W6000: A black, more brutish box, some rounded edges but the huge lens shield is the attraction. Joystick lens shift control
Epson Home Cinema 8350: Decent looking - another box, with minor trim
Epson Home Cinema 3010, 3010e: Much better, centered lens, whiter than most white projectors, very 'family room", , control panel on the side
Mitsubishi HC4000: Small-Medium sized, it is styled with a dark finish, a protruding lens with hood far to one side. Some say it looks really cool, but doesn't do that much for me.
Optoma HD20: Sort of almost cute, white with some of Optoma's curves and angles that give it a bit of a Euro look.
Optoma HD33: Pretty much a similar, bigger projector from Optoma, still white nice front curve.
Panasonic PT-AR100: A bigger white box, lacking contrasting trim, lens shift hides behind panel on the front, control panel on the side
Viewsonic Pro8200 Black finish matte like finish in front, glossy in the back - more styling than most other lower cost projectors. 10 watt speakers. Physically similar to the BenQ W1200
Vivitek H1080FD: Another small DLP projector finished in white, it is a good size larger than the Optoma HD20, and almost identical to the BenQ W1000 it is similar to.
$2000 - $3500 1080p Home Theater Projectors
BenQ W7000 projector: It's what we said about the W6000: A black, more brutish box, some rounded edges but the huge lens shield is the styling :attraction.
Epson Home Cinema 5010 and 5010e: Mostly white, centered lens, black trim around front vents, makes a nice two tone look, lots of soft corners and edges, a dramatic improvement over the older 8350, 8700UB series. I like the black in the front for bouncing less light back to the screen than an all white front. A perhaps insignificant thing, but the idea is good.
Epson Pro Cinema 6010 projector: See the comments immediately above. It's the same pretty much everything, is finished in black.
JVC DLA-RS45 (aka X70R): Large, shiny black piano finish, silver trim ring, control panel in the back. No great style but looks serious and classy
LG CF181D: Like all the other LCoS projectors in this report, it's fairly large, and a bit massive looking, especially compared to some of the smaller DLP projectors. It's finished in black, with a sort of split level look due to a "trim ring" that's recessed that goes around the front and sides. It is one of the tallest projectors in this review. The LG's front is curved from side to side, giving it a little style, but it's still a black box, if a nicer looking one than most, with its curved front.
Mitsubishi HC7800D: Black, piano finish, some lines and curves - a little style. The lens is recessed and off center.
Panasonic PT-AE7000: Dark grey/black matte finish, hidden joystick for lens shift, side control panel. Clean, rather than pretty or cool.
Sony VPL-HW30ES projector: The Sony looks good. It is moderately large, narrow and deep. The front has angles moving back to the sides, with the center area dropping back. The centered lens isn't recessed per se, but is recessed to the parts of the front that come out the most. Side control panel and inputs (left side if facing the projector)
Vivitek H5080: Looks very much like an Optoma, comes out of the same factory I believe. Black, shiny. some sloping lines. Another slightly dressed up box. Bright trim ring. The H5080 has a centered lens.
$3500 - $10,000 Home Theater Projectors
JVC DLA-X70R: Large, shiny black piano finish, silver trim ring, control panel in the back. No great style but looks serious and classy. Deeper than wide with just a little silver trim and a bit of sculpting, make it clean and good looking. The center mounted lens is not only recessed, but a door slides to protect it when powered off.
Optoma HD8300 projector: Clean, flat black finish nice grill with recessed and centered lens. Looks good. Limited control panel, has 2nd "convenience" remote
Runco LS-5 and LS10d: Definitely the most unusual looking projectors in the whole group. The projector is basically round! It's a bit wider around the top than the bottom so the sides slope inward. The black piano finish looks good. If it weren't for the slightly protruding centered lens, and the cables, you might not figure out it's a projector. For me the verdict is still out on the styling. Cable cover
Sony VPL-VW95ES: Very nice looking for one of the largest projectors covered in this report The top is finished in a shiny black with tiny blue speckles (that just add a touch of blue to the color when hit by a lot of light). The front is nicely curved back toward the sides. As I mentioned when reviewing it, the styling is wife friendly, or should be if the size isn't a concern.
OK, the beauty pagent is over, time to get back to some important aspects of these projectors.
Projector Control Panels
No point into going into the control panels here, other than to note that the Optoma HD8300 lacks a control panel instead has a 2nd, smaller remote.
All the projectors in this review have a number of things in common. All, but those mentioned in the first section, have their control panels in the back (the ones with the input section - cable connections - on the side, are the Sonys. JVC had been on the side for years but switched to the back last year.
All of these projectors have at least two HDMI inputs. All the 3D capable projectors have HDMI inputs are HDMI 1.4a. I do not believe that any of the 2D only projectors have HDMI 1.4a, but I did not consider that a key feature so did not confirm.
All have at least one component video input. Today we all tend to use HDMI, but for those replacing older projectors who only have component cable run, it's good to know they are still able to use their cabling.
All the projectors but one, have an analog computer input. That exception is the JVC RS45. Why it lacks it, other than marketing, is beyond my grasp. As I see it, its a way of differentiating the RS45 from their more expensive projectors. Mac owners won't mind, they'll use HDMI, as can some PC users. There are other work arounds, that are more of a nuisance.
Screen Triggers: Most projectors have one, some have two (two lets you raise/lower a motorized screen with one, and control an anamorphic lens sled or screen masking system with the other). Today, however, screens and sleds and masking systems can be controlled with IR or RF remotes in most cases, so screen triggers aren't critical.
RS232 (service port) All the projectors have one. This allows your projector to interface to a room control system or PC for control. In some cases, the port can be used to download firmware upgrades. Sorry, I haven't followed which can/can't do downloads, but very few manufacturers ever offer firmware downloads.
Please see the individual reviews for details and screen shots of various menu pages. Some projectors have great menu layouts, some have type small enough to be a problem for some to read, but, the bottom line is that you almost certainly wouldn't change your mind about which projector you will by, based on the menu system! For that reason, while it's a very minor factor in deciding award winners, we won't take your time up comparing the menus. The number of user savable memories, and how they work are good things to look into that we don't get into here.
Remote controls have several attributes worthy of discussion. Basically: The layout and ergonomic considerations (large small, one handed use, or two), and especially, effective range.
Each remote is discussed in the individual reviews. While you may or may not like a projector's remote, I seriously doubt anyone will change their purchase decision because of a remote's abilities. Hey, if you love your projector, but hate your remote, it's just one more excuse to go out and buy a nice universal, programmable remote to control all your equipment! The JVC remotes are favorites, I really like the Epson remotes but for the backlight button placement. The Sony is a nice, simple layout, and a great remote. Sony's are feature laden and also really nice. Lastly, the BenQ remotes for the W7000 and W6000, all come to mind as remotes you won't have to complain about. Some of the others are afflicted with issues like limited range, small buttons, cramped buttons, buttons with soggy feel, and backlights that are too dim or too bright.
Lens Throw and Lens Shift
Some projectors have a lot of placement range, while others are severely limited. With few exceptions, 3LCD projectors and LCoS projectors are extremely flexible, with zoom lenses with plenty of zoom, and all of these two groups of projectors have lens shift. By comparison, the DLP projectors consistently have very little zoom range. Some of the DLP projectors have lens shift others do not. Even when they do have lens shift, they don't have as much as the other types.
Let's discuss the issues, then get into the individual projector's abilities.
Lens shift is a requirement if you want to shelf mount a projector in the rear of your room. It allows the projector to maintain a proper, rectangular image on the screen from different heights, and for a projector placed higher than the mid-point on the screen, without lens shift, the projector must be inverted, so, essentially, ceiling mounted.
The other thing you need to shelf mount, is a projector that can be placed far enough back to sit on a rear shelf. Of course your room length and screen size come into play. Let's say that those projectors without lens shift normally also have lenses with very little zoom range, so their throw distance range is normally kept fairly short, figuring that ceiling mounting is easier, closer to the screen.
Here's a chart organized by our three Classes. For each projector, it provides placement information in terms of distance and height, for a 100 inch 16:9 screen. Using these numbers, you can determine the ranges for any sized screen just with a simple calculation.
All of these projectors can be ceiling mounted. All of the projectors with lens shift are capable of rear shelf mounting.
|(feet & inches)||(feet & inches)||Lens Shift||Ht. (inches)|
|Acer H9500BD||10 ft. 11 in.||16 ft. 5 in.||Y||12 in. unequal|
|BenQ W1200||10 ft. 2 in.||15 ft. 7 in.||N||16 in.|
|BenQ W6000||11 ft. 10 in.||17 ft. 8 in.||Y||0 in.|
|Epson HC8350||9 ft. 10 in.||20 ft. 11 in.||Y||22.7 in.|
|Epson HC3010||9 ft. 9 in.||15 ft. 9 in.||N||0 in.|
|Mitsubishi HC4000||11 ft. 1 in.||16 ft. 5 in.||N||16.5 in.|
|Optoma HD20||10 ft. 11 in.||13 ft. 1 in.||N||8 in.|
|Optoma HD33||10 ft. 11 in.||13 ft. 1 in.||N||7 in.|
|Panasonic PT-AR100||9 ft. 10 in.||19 ft. 7 in.||Y||32 in.|
|Viewsonic Pro8200||10 ft. 4 in.||15 ft. 7 in.||N||16.8 in.|
|Vivitek H1080FD||10 ft. 10 in.||13 ft. 1 in.||N||8 in.|
|$2000 - $3500|
|BenQ W7000||11 ft. 10 in.||17 ft. 8 in.||Y||0 in.|
|Epson 5010||9 ft. 10 in.||20 ft. 11 in.||Y||22.7 in.|
|Epson 6010||9 ft. 10 in.||20 ft. 11 in.||Y||22.7 in.|
|JVC RS45 / X30||9 ft. 10 in.||20 ft. 1 in.||Y||15 in.|
|LG CF181D||9 ft. 10 in.||17 ft. 10 in.||Y||10 in.|
|Mitsubishi HC7800D||10 ft. 2 in.||15 ft. 1 in.||Y||6 in.|
|Panasonic PT-AE7000||9 ft. 11 in.||19 ft. 9 in.||Y||varies|
|Sony VPL-HW30ES||9 ft.9 in.||15 ft. 9 in.||Y||8 in.|
|Vivitek H5080||11 ft. 3 in.||14 ft. 0 in.||Y||14 in. unequal|
|JVC DLA-X70R||9 ft. 11 in.||20 ft. 1 in.||Y||15 in.|
|Mitsubishi HC9000D||11 ft. 4 in.||20 ft. 7 in.||Y||25 in.|
|Optoma HD8300||10 ft. 10 in.||16 ft. 6 in.||Y||13 in.|
|Runco LS-5||12 ft. 11 in.||16 ft. 9 in.||Y||8 in.|
|Runco LS-10d||13 ft. 5 in.||17 ft. 5 in.||Y||8 in.|
|SIM2 Nero 3D-2||9 ft. 11 in. (T1)||28 ft. 5 in. (T3)||Y||0 in.|
|Sony VW95ES||10 ft. 1 in.||16 ft. 4 in.||Y||7 in.|
Note: All numbers above are approximate. Throw distances should be accurate within about one inch. In terms of Maximum shift, and especially the amount of shift (offset) on projectors without adjustable lens shift, we have found that manufacturers often make errors!
We recommend you double check the numbers with the manufacturer's tech support, for accurate lens shift numbers. If you are using an installing dealer, they should be on top of the situation. (At least two of these manufacturers show conflicting information in their brochures, compared to their manuals, on at least one model.
For your convenience, below, the home theater projectors are organized first by price class, then by amount of placement flexibility. The four categories are:
Greatest Placement Flexibility (excellent zoom range, lens shift)
Good Placement Flexibility (moderately good zoom range, lens shift)
Fair Placement Flexibility (typically limited zoom range, lens shift, there are exceptions)
Poor Placement Flexibility (limited zoom range, no lens shift)
None of the projectors listed as Poor can be shelf mounted. Those rated Fair can be shelf mounted, but have very limited range and may not work out in most rooms.
Keep in mind that if you plan to ceiling mount, there isn't that much difference between the four groups, unless ceiling height is an issue, in which case Poor Placement Flexibility projectors may still be a problem as they lack any lens shift.
The key benefit of ceiling mounting is that you can place the projector closer to the screen which often means a brighter image.
Key benefits of shelf mounting include usually easier to get power to the projector (installation time and cost), less audible noise, easier access, generally simpler to install and align.
Entry Level 1080p Projectors - Under $2000
Greatest Placement Flexibility: Epson Home Cinema 8350, Panasonic PT-AR100
Good Placement Flexibility: Acer H9500BD, BenQ W6000
Fair Placement Flexibility: Epson Home Cinema 3010, Mitsubishi HC4000, Viewsonic Pro8200,
Poor Placement Flexibility: BenQ W1200, Optoma HD20, Optoma HD33, Vivitek H1080FD
Mid-Priced 1080p Projectors - $2000 - $3500
Greatest Placement Flexibility: Epson Home Cinema 5010, Epson Pro Cinema 6010, Panasonic PT-AE7000, JVC DLA-RS45
Good Placement Flexibility: BenQ W6000, LG CF181D, Mitsubishi HC7800D, Sony VPL-HW30ES, Vivitek H5080.
For the second year running, this year, every projector in this mid-priced class offers lens shift! All of them have at least a 1.5:1 zoom ratio as well. In other words every projector we reviewed in this price range had at least good placement flexibility. The most signficant difference between "Greatest" and "Good" placement flexibility is that most of the "good" ones may not work rear shelf mounted, if your room is moderately deep, or your screen relatively small for the room size. those with 2:1 zooms normally can be shelf mounted in all but very unusual (read very deep) rooms, even these "greatest" projectors won't be rear shelf mountable (with a 100" diagonal screen) in rooms deeper than about 22 feet.
Premium Priced 1080p Projectors - $3500 - $10,000
Greatest Placement Flexibility: JVC DLA-X70R, Runco LS5 and LS10d (interchangeable lenses), SIM2 Nero 3D-2 (interchangeable lenses)
Good Placement Flexibility: Mitsubishi HC9000D, Optoma HD8300, Sony VPL-VW95ES
All projectors in this class have lens shift as well! This year every projector without lens shift, sells for under $2000. Last year, we had some projectors without lens shift, in all three price classes. What has changed? Primarily the DLP projector manufacturers have been getting tired of losing sales to the LCD camp, because of placement flexibility.
Ceiling Height Issues: These projectors are less likely to work in your home theater if your ceiling height is low, or if ceiling height is average, but screen size is rather large. This is due to a lack of lens shift, combined with a signficant amount of fixed lens offset, that requires them to be mounted well above the top of your screen. All of these must be mounted at least 7.5 inches (measured from the center of the lens) and up to 16.5 inches above the top of the screen.
One dramatic improvement (I think so, at least) is that this year, most of the projectors lacking adjustable lens shift, have been redesigned compared to previous models, so that they have less fixed lens offset. Last year we had 5 projector with at least 15 inches of fixed offset. This year, that number has dropped to just one, (the Mitsubishi HC3800 at 16.5 inches offest) and only one other with at least 10 inches (that would be 12 inches for the Samsung SP-A600. The rest of the fixed lens offset projectors all have about 8 inches of offset, which is just about half of what most of last year's units offered!
The same chart we used above for throw distances has almost all the info you need for vertical positioning. It tells you if the projector has adjustable lens shift, and where the projector can be mounted, relative to screen height. Below is a list of projectors that do not have lens shift, and do have a lot of lens offset requiring them (if ceiling mounted) to be mounted higher than the top of the screen, by enough that they may not work in your room, if you don't have higher than average ceilings.
All of these units must be mounted approximately 17 inches above the top of your screen's surface. That 17 inches is the difference between the top of the screen's surface, and the center of the lens. Remember, that even mounting as close as flush to the ceiling as possible, the center of the lens is likely going to be at least 7 inches below the ceiling (and that's tight).
Below is a chart which gives several examples. It tells you how far off the floor the bottom of the screen surface (not the frame) would have to be, for four common screen sizes, and four different ceiling heights. Obviously, you can't have your screen starting just a few inches off the floor, especially if some folks sit behind others. To come up with these numbers we assume a projector without adjustable lens shift, fixed lens offset of 15 inches, and the center of the lens. We assume you can't mount the projector any higher than where the center of the lens would still be 7 inches below the ceiling (about as high as you can mount it, with a typical ceiling mount). Many mounts may require an even larger distance between ceiling and center of the lens:
Screen size (above) is diagonal screen size, measured in inches.
Measurements (inches) provided are distance from floor to bottom of screen surface (not screen frame).
As you can see from the chart above, take for example, a projector like the Mitsubishi HC4000 (has 16.5 inches offset). For it, an 8 foot ceiling, and a 110 inch diagonal screen, the bottom of your screen surface is about 20 inches from the floor. That's certainly about as low as anyone would want. With the same 8 foot ceiling, and a 128" screen (like mine), you'd have to dig a hole, as the bottom of the screen would be below the floor level!
If your setup is going to be tight, you may want to start by figuring out how close to the ceiling, you can mount the projector. Then add the distance to the center of the lens which will vary depending on how far (vertically) from the top of the projector to the center of the lens.
Distance from ceiling to top (inverted) of the projector + Distance from top of projector to center of lens = Total distance from ceiling to lens center.
Bottom line: This year's projectors, as a group, are far better than last year's when it comes to vertical placement flexibility. For openers, not one over $2000 projector in our report lacks adjustable lens shift. Last year we had 3 higher priced projectors without lens shift. In fact, despite the addition of three new entry level $999 projectors without lens shift, this year's crop of projectors finds that lens shift is finding its way on to more and more DLP projectors (it's already standard on all LCD and LCoS projectors we reviewed.
Projectors with lens shift:
Since all the other projectors have adjustable lens shift, your only restriction to screen size is if it fits on your wall, with the minimum height off the floor that you find acceptable (without the top of the projector hitting the ceiling).
For example, with that 128 inch screen and a projector with lens shift, the screen height (excluding frame), is about 63 inches. Thus, even with an 8 foot ceiling height, you could have the screen surface bottom as high up as 33 inches (96 inch room height - 63 inches of screen height = 33 inches). Now that would have the top of the screen flush with the ceiling, and doesn't allow for the screen's frame, so if you have a four inch frame at top and bottom, the 33 inches becomes 29 inches.
Please remember, we calculate the lower number from the bottom of the screen surface, not from its frame, so the bottom of the frame would be at 25 inches (29 - 4) with a four inch wide frame.
Anamorphic Lens Support
Using an anamorphic lens lets you use a 2.35:1 aspect ratio screen, the same ratio as most movies (which we will refer to as Cinemascope movies) use. The combination of screen and lens means no letterboxing at the top and bottom when watching most movies.
By "anamorphic lens supprt" we mean that the projector has the built in (internal) stretch scaling to properly resize the image to work with an anamorphic lens. Any projector can work with an anamorphic lens, even without this, but it would require an outboard processor to handle the correct scaling. Consider those outboard processors to start at around $800, with products like the recently reviewed DVDO Edge.
All of the projectors in this report have internal support for an anamorphic lens, except the following:
Optoma HD20, BenQ W1200, Vivitek H1080FD, Epson Home Cinema 8350, 3010, 5010, , Pro Cinema 9100, Sony VPL-HW15
Emulating an Anamorphic Lens Setup
Panasonic was the first company to provide an anamorphic lens emulation solution. Simply stated, they allow you to change the zoom position (it is motorized) when working with a 2.35:1 screen. In the wider zoom position, a Cinemascope movie just fills the screen. When you need to watch 16:9 or 4:3, you zoom out, so that those sizes do not overshoot the top and bottom of the screen.
What makes it work, is that Panasonic lets you save the lens positions, so that it is easy to toggle back and forth - as easy as controlling a real anamorphic lens/sled.
Since then, in time for this report, in addition to the PT-AE7000, both JVC projectors and the Sony VPL-VW95ES also offer one Lens Memory variation or another.
It's not a perfect solution, but it's free, and that compares well to the typical $4000+ for a lens/sled combination from a major manufacturer. The limits - the reasons it isn't quite as good, are two fold. First, when filling the screen with Cinemascope content, the letterboxes are still there, but they exist above the top of your screen and below the bottom. If your walls are light colored, you will still see them, but if your walls are dark (or you have dark draping around the screen), the letterboxes will be invisible.
The second downside relates to brightness. the various manufacturers' emulation still produces those letterboxes, so you are only using about 80% of the pixels for the movie image. With a real setup, you use 100%. Thus, you get about a 25% brighter image with a real lens/sled combo (minus some small loss for the extra optics)
Lastly, The Panasonic has a 2:1 zoom lens ratio, as do the JVCs. That's about as good as it gets. However to support the two lens positions, you give up about half of your placement flexibility, reducing the working range. You won't be able to place the projector as far back. As a result, in many rooms you will no longer be able to rear shelf mount. The Sony VPL-VW95ES, with its 1.6:1 has a much narrower placement range, if using Lens Memory. For your consideration given a 100" screen, the front to back range is probably less than 2 feet for a 100" screen, that's vs. about five feet of range with a 2:1 zoom. Something to keep an eye on.
By the way, any projector with at least a 1.5:1 zoom lens can do the same thing, but since projectors are typically mounted where its inconvenient to reach them, it's not practical for projectors without motorized zoom and focus. (Who wants to climb a ladder every time you want to switch from a movie to HDTV or back?) If the projector has enough range, and motorized zoom and focus, such as the Sanyo PLV-Z700 and PLV-Z3000, the JVC RS10 and RS20 to name a few, you can do the same thing as the Panasonic does.
The difference is you will be using your remote to make the zoom changes, and it will take a minute to get the size just right, and possibly refocus. By comparison, the Panasonic, JVCs and the Sony do it at the touch of a button, setting the zoom and refocusing. Nice touch! Keep in mind that adjusting the zoom repeatedly on any projector is likely to throw the focus off, at least a little. That's why Panasonic's Lens Memory, uses it's auto focus technology to refocus after each time you change the zoom setting with Lens Memory.
Extended Projector Tours
Below you will find tables linking to the individual tour pages of each projector considered in this year's report. Here, you will find more in-depth information about each projector's hardware.
Home Theater Projectors: Street Price Under $2000
|Projector||Projector image||Link to Tour|
|Acer H6500||Click here|
|Acer H9500BD||Click here|
|BenQ W1070||Click here|
|BenQ W7000||Click here|
|Epson HC8350||Click here|
|Epson HC3020/e||Click here|
|Mitsubishi HC4000||Click here|
|Optoma HD20||Click here|
|Optoma HD23||Click here|
|Optoma HD33||Click here|
|Panasonic PT-AR100||Click here|
|Sharp XV-Z30000||Click here|
|Viewsonic Pro8200||Click here|
|Vivitek H1080FD||Click here|
Home Theater Projectors: Street Price $2000-3500
|Projector||Projector image||Link to Tour|
|Epson Home Cinema 5020UB/e||Click here|
|Epson Pro Cinema 6020UB||Click here|
|JVC DLA-X35 / RS46||Click here|
|Mitsubishi HC7900D||Click here|
|Mitsubishi HC8000D||Click here|
|Sony VPL-HW50ES||Click here|
|ViewSonic Pro9000||Click here|
|Vivitek H5080||Click here|
Home Theater Projectors: Street Price $3500-10,000+
|Projector||Projector image||Link to Tour|
|JVC DLA-X55R/RS48U||Click here|
|JVC DLA-X75R/RS56U||Not Reviewed|
|Optoma HD8300||Click here|
|Runco LS-5||Click here|
|Runco LS-10d||Click here|
|SIM2 Nero 3D-2||Click here|
|Sony VPL-VW95ES||Click here|
|Sony VPL-VW1000ES||Click here|
NEXT: Projector Image Quality