Now, assuming you just want to know how plug in the numbers we provide based on the unit we calibrate and review, here’s the short version.

1. Start in a mode, say Theater Black 2, if that’s the best Cinema mode (I’m not checking now to see if it was 2, or 1).

2. In the menus: Adjust the brightness, contrast, saturation, etc. with the numbers Mike provides in the projector’s calibration page.

3. From the same menu, scroll down to advanced: Select RGB… Open that, and put in our settings. go to the Save Memory menu item (on a different main menu (Memory?) And save into User Memory 1 (or whatever you like. rename it so you know more of your setting, if you like.

4. Start over for your next mode. if a brightest mode, I believe we compromised and based on Livingroom (bettrer color but less lumens than dynamic) You would be saving two memories minimum – one for best, one for “brightest” tweak from there, as needed. Make sure other things are on, or off, as needed, such as for creating a bright sports mode, you’d want the iris off, and likely the dynamic iris On (low setting) For a bright mode for viewing general HDTV, though you might like having a second bright mode with the iris on. or perhaps, and perhaps with Creative Frame Interpolation off. I have about 7 different customized settings for different viewing situations, some are almost identical – ie. two brightest modes identical but for different color saturation. The one that’s oversaturated noticeably, I use when I have maximum ambient light, and the other when the light is more under control, and I don’t need the extra saturation to punch through. Have fun! -art

Would you mind re-posting your calibration settings for the 6500? I have tried using what is in the official review on Projectorreviews.com, but it seems like part of the text refers to a Sanyo projector, and also there seems to be two different values for color saturation in Theatre1 mode…

Thanks

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Greetings Sergio,

Actually, everything there looks right (I took a quick look), with the exception of the two different numbers for color saturation.

Mike’s numbers from his calibration, produce the -3 saturation. I do most of my watching on the Firehawk G3 screen (HC gray). I find that most typically, I run the saturation between -3 and -9, but most often, between -6 and -9. The -8 is what I put in as most typical. With a white screen surface, most people would increase the saturation, compared to the settings for an HC gray screen. Depending on your overall setup, you should find happiness somewhere in that -3 to -8 range. The difference between -3 and -8 is noticeable, but hardly drastic. -art

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Hi Scott,

yes Epson will have new firmware. It is apparently getting close to ready. However, Epson has not determined how to handle the upgrade. Last I spoke with them, they indicated two likely possibilities – something that could be downloaded by people and installed, or having people send their projectors in for the upgrade.

What I do know, is that the projector can be field upgraded, so possibility #1 is doable. The issues will tend to relate to protecting copyrights, etc. Pixelworks, and independent company that makes scaling and image processing code/software, for outboard processors, projectors and flat panel TVs designed the CFI for the 6500UB. As such, Epson Japan will have to come to an understanding with Pixelworks if they are going to let end users handle the firmware. Typical legal issues, but, they likely will determine the “final solution”.

I don’t have a timeline, but I’d be surprised if Epson didn’t put forth their solution in the next 4-8 weeks. It is definitely coming, they tell me, only the delivery method is in question. -art

O.K. you’ve been very enthusiastic about a few projectors before, but I can’t recall you being this enthusiastic before! I had an experience a few months ago when I walked into a Best Buy store and saw a Samsung LCD T.V. playing an animated feature. It stopped me dead in my tracks! I’ve seen a couple of 3D features at the IMAX, but what I was seeing from this T.V. was a 3D effect that, to me at least, was more appealing and natural than what I saw in the IMAX theatre. Apparently, its the frame interpolation feature of the Samsung T.V. that lends itself to creating an impression of massive depth, at least with some material. I am looking forward to your full review of the 6500 and your impressions concerning, in particular, the 3D appearance of the image.

Thanks.

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Greetings Grant,

Hmm, I think I posted an update right after you sent in this comment. Yes, it is the frame interpolation, and after much time studying what it was doing. Your Samsung story fits nicely with what I am finding.

That’s the problem with my “first looks” they are just that. Perhaps I should have waited the extra day or so, but then everyone has been dying to hear anything about the 6500 UB. Cie la vie!

The depth (24 fps, frame interpolation on at any setting) is definitely unnatural – un-filmlike, but very cool looking. And the motion artifacts that I describe in the 2nd look blog, are more than enough to be annoying to any enthusiast, and perhaps most people. (on the other hand, many might rank it with rainbow effect – they can see it, but don’t care. I concluded that it’s fun, at times, but you really wouldn’t want to watch a movie that way because of the jerkiness of the image. It might be great in a chase scene, but not in a relatively still one.

Thus, for now, I recommend not using it for movie viewing (assuming a 24fps source), and I have some issues on some scenes with just the 4:4 running as well., with blurring. Evan, at projector central reported related things a while back on an article about 24 fps itself (not related to frame interpolation).

I’m hoping that the frame interpolation will work much better with the source having 24fps output turned off, which is what I will try next. Since I didn’t notice any obvious issues when watching football, with a 1080i source, I suspect that not feeding 24fps is the key to getting the most out of frame interpolation.

We shall see. As noted, I will be observing the same material from my PS3 but with 24fps off on the PS3. I plan also to do side by side comparisons with the Panasonic (definitely) and Sanyo Z3000 (likely) trying various frame interpolation setups. Unfortunately, the Mitsubishi HC7000, the fourth 3LCD projector with 120 hz support, has long since gone back to Mitsubishi.

Bottom line: At worst case, I expect that the frame interpolation will be a good thing for sports and 1080i source material in general, but may not be viable for movie watching.

More likely, (I hope), by not using 24fps at all, the projector handle frame interpolation well, regardless of the source.

Stay tuned!

And happy holidays! -a

Looks like you will have your hands full for a couple of weeks.

Like Matt above I have a 135″ (1.8gain) 16×9 screen I am using with my InFocus 7210. I keep trolling looking for a 1080p replacement. If I decide to try a dip in the CIH pool I was going to try a 141 x 60 screen.

When the folks at Epson come back to work can you find out the “skinny” on the LPE (Light Power Edition) of the TW5000 (ne: 7500UB) that Epson sells ONLY in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland (for some bizarre reason). Supposedly this unit has an extra filter (either internal or external… there are several debates about that) that allows the projector to run in Dynamic Mode but still provide D65 color and correct grey-scale.

Obviously for those of us addicted to big screens… it would certainly be nice to have the LPE added to the list of choices.

Epson for years has had some very peculiar ideas about marketing… before the Home versions they used to charge those of us in the USA double for their projectors than they did the rest of the world… I am glad they finally came out with the Home version here in the US, but why they would only sell this LPE version in three countries is just plain weird!!!

Sounds like this is the winner I was looking for. Can’t wait for your review…but I might not wait that long to order it.