Epson Home Cinema 6100 Projector: First Look
December 31st, 2008 Art Feierman
Email This Post
Greetings all,
I know at least a few of you have been patiently waiting for this
The Epson Home Cinema 6100 - lots of bang for your buck!
Epson Home Cinema 6100 projector blog, and almost all of you who are, have probably read the review of the Epson Home Cinema 6500UB.
With that in mind, I’m going to keep this short. For many points I may refer you to the 6500UB projector review on the site.
OK, what have we here – the Epson 6100 is a $1999 MSRP projector, so most of you (in the US) will be paying a little less than that.
Some basics:
4000 hour lamp, in bright or low lamp modes
Very bright, Nothing I can think of is brighter in “brightest mode” without spending twice the price or more.
Of course, as an LCD home theater projector it’s got great placement flexibility, slightly better than most of the other LCD projectors, in fact.
Audible Noise is average – there are much quieter, and noticeably noisier. For example the also very bright Optoma HD806 which is a little noisier than the average DLP home projector, is far noisier when both are at full power.
Menus, and the remote, are both very good. The menus are almost identical to the 6500UB, or for that matter the older Epson Home Cinema 1080 UB, if you want to see what the menus look like (the 6500UB menu section isn’t up yet as of today).
The Epson 6100 is very sharp. Not the absolute sharpest, but like the 6500UB, it is solidly in the “very sharp” group as opposed to the “average sharpness” group – of 1080p projectors.
Black levels – very interesting. I’ve already reviewed all the new ultra high contrast LCD projectors (Sanyo Z3000, Epson 6500UB, Mitsubishi HC7000 and Panasonic PT-AE3000), of which, the Epson does the best blacks. The Sanyo had the weakest blacks of those four. Since the old entry level Epson 1080 projector, the Home Cinema 1080, was pretty good at blacks, and since the 6100 has a better contrast spec, I wondered whether it might get close to the Sanyo PLV-Z3000 – the least expensive of the ultra high contrast projectors.
After viewing side by side, no, the Epson cannot match the Sanyo. Due to differences in how the dynamic irises are setup, the Sanyo’s lamp control, etc. different scenes do yield slightly different results. The Epson is one of the better “non ultra” projectors in black level performance, but futher, say, from the Sanyo, than the Sanyo is to the Panasonic or Mitsubishi. the Epson UB puts a lot more distance between it and the Sanyo in black level performance, so the Sanyo might be just a little better than half way between the two Epsons. Let’s say the slight more expensive Sanyo is a small step up in this regard, but there are many other factors, and many favor the 6100, starting with the probable $300 lower selling price for the Epson.
It’s hard not to like the 6100. It really does everything very well. With no frame interpolation, unlike the Epson 6500UB, that translates into no real issues.
Brightness is virtually identical to the 6500UB, just a tad brighter. We know our metering tends to produce 15% higher lumen readings than some other reviewers, still, Mike measured 2057 lumens in Dynamic mode! TheaterBlack1, clocked in at 687 lumens uncalibrated, and 675 calibrated. LivingRoom mode cranked out 1581 lumens, and does it very well, in terms of color fidelity.
Mike reports that the Epson 6100 projector calibrated easier than the 6500UB, but that could be caused, by?? – well lamp variation could account for that. Bottom line, Mike got a more perfect grayscale balance with the 6100.
I favor the iris on the fast setting, as with the 6500UB. I didn’t play with the normal mode much, but the fast mode seems to be pretty unobtrusive, better than most.
If you are short on the bucks, or just don’t care enough about getting a projector with the “next” level of black level performance, the Epson looks real good. Of the LCD projectors it is the brightest – in both best and brightest modes. Oh, the Optoma HD806 creams the Epson in best mode, with over twice the lumens, but I ran the two side by side, with the Epson on LivingRoom setting, and it was about the same brightness as the HD806, but even in LivingRoom mode, it bested the Optoma for black levels, and that was with the Optoma’s dynamic iris engaged – it’s a really noisy one, so much so, that I could not engage it and enjoy movie watching. By comparison the Mitsubishi HC5500 is about as bright in best mode, but only about half the brightness in brightest mode. The Sanyo Z700 is much dimmer in best, and about 2/3 the brightness in “brightest” mode. The Panasonic PT-AE3000? Well, it’s more a competitor of the 6500UB (but about $300 less than the UB). It also can’t match the 6100’s brightness in either mode, but is definitely a step up projector.
The Optoma is the only DLP I have here other than the IN83 (over twice the price). It would have been interesting to see where the Epson 6100 falls, relative to the two BenQ’s (W5000 and W20000). My guess is it can hold its own with the W20000, which is a lot more expensive. I could discuss the LCoS projectors, but basically on the Sony HW10 comes even within $1000 (if it does), but it’s competition is the 6500UB.
I’m pretty certain that the 6100 bests the lower cost Sanyo – the PLV-Z700, as well as the Mitsubishi HC5500 in black levels, though it can’t be by a great deal.
Bottom line- hard go wrong with this Epson projector. While, like other Epson’s I don’t consider it the most “film-like” it is good, and the trade-off is a nicely dynamic image – a bit more “wow” and “pop” than most of the competition offers.
That’s it for tonight! Need sleep – it’s 3:29am PS, will try to have the whole review posted by next Monday. -art
Email This Post
December 31st, 2008 at 11:46 am
Art,
Nice heads up on the EPSON HC6100. For reference, can you comment on the 6100 black levels compared to your old standby dlp, the BENQ PE8720.
thanks.
***************
Hi Geza,
It’s been a long time since I’ve had my 8720, and projectors have improved a good deal. Still, the 8720 is a DC3 projector, and did pretty well. My best guess is that the 8720 and 6100 are probably about the same, in black levels, with the 6100 having the advantage in very dark scenes or fairly dark scenes, (thanks to the dynamic iris) without any significant bright white or bright other colors. The 6100 seems to outdo the one Darkchip2 (actually I believe the HD806 is the newer Darkchip1) projector I have here, overall.
But, it’s an educated guess. Assuming you have an 8720, and want to move to 1080p, to get significant black level improvement, you probably want to go for the 6500UB, or the PT-AE3000, give or take the various differences. -art
December 31st, 2008 at 1:44 pm
Art:
Is there a reason to calibrate with Dynamic Iris off rather than on? Especially if you plan to use the DI on all the time for certain modes like theater black 1? a rule of thumb for the old tw-700 was to leave the DI on all the time if you did not mind the noise (can not remember why, but am certain some really knowledgable folks on AVS Forum concluded that)
I have done my greyscale thus far with DI on and wonder if that is an incorrect way to proceed. In fact, thus far, no matter what the mode between TB1 and Living Room, incl. Natural, I have just left teh DI on at all times.
******************
Good question Dave,
For the actual grayscale calibration, I don’t think it should really matter, but having it on would make a difference for brightness measurements, and it probably plays havoc with gamma measurements and settings.
Now, for watching – movies DI on, sports, DI off. (sports, as they change cameras, the DI tends to compensate for different lighting, and on top of that, the cameras they shoot with are adjusting as well, more “dynamic” things happening, than needed, or wanted for sports) -art
BTW,
January 1st, 2009 at 8:07 am
Art,
I have an Infocus 4805, and like many others I want to upgrade to 1080. The DLPs available don’t seem to cut it for me. So, my question: Can I get the same “filmlike” quality from an LCD projector that I get from my 4805?
Oh, sorry, a second question: I have a dark gray painted on the wall screen, which has a problem with bright areas of the picture (washing out, etc.). How will an LCD projector behave with my current “screen” and should I invest in a good gray actual screen?
Thanks
***************
Hi, sorry for the delay, seems I missed a number of comments right around New Years day.
Tough call, re the “film-like” DLP’s do look different than 3LCD projectors, in general, although these days they are very close. I think it’s more of “which one” than the class in general. Generally, the better Sanyo units and Mitsubishi projectors are more film-like, than say the Epson’s. But on the other hand DLPs tend to manage “film-like” along with that feel of depth that I believe comes from their richer colors in the lower IRE ranges. The Panasonic is also considered flim-like, but probably doesn’t have that same richness to the extent of some DLP projectors.
As to your screen hot-spot – I don’t see one technology having an advantage over the others. In other words, get a “real” screen. -art
January 4th, 2009 at 7:03 pm
Art,
I am looking at my first projector purchase. I am wondering your thoughts between this projector and spending $200-$300 more for the Sanyo Z3000.
In particular, what are the differences in black levels?
***************
Hi Bryan,
With Epson’s 18,000:1 contrast claim, and Sanyo’s 60,000? (without looking it back up), I found the Sanyo’s black levels to be in the same general class as the 6500UB and Panasonic PT-AE3000, Sony HW10, but, the weakest of the three.
As a result, I was curious if the 6100 came close to the Z3000. As it turns out, I viewed them side by side, and while the 6100 is extremely good for a “non-ultra-high-contrast” projector, the Sanyo is still closer to the others mentioned above, than to the 6100. That’s not that the 6100 isn’t very good, but if you are craving the next step up, in black level performance, and other issues don’t come into play, then I have to go with the Sanyo. It’s interesting. Black level performance between the assorted ultra high contrast projectors seems to line up with price. (The Mitsubishi HC7000 being the exception, due to its high price because of it’s “local dealer only” marketing, like the Epson Pro Cinema 7500UB). That is to say, Sanyo, very good, Panasonic a little better, Epson best of the group, and at least in the US, that’s they way they price – Sanyo – least expensive, then the Panasonic, then the Epson. So, other aspects notwithstanding, it’s very much of “you get what you pay for”. -art
January 5th, 2009 at 1:24 pm
Can you give some information about the lumens measurements, for both this projector and the 6500UB? You said that the brightness of the 6100 was just a tad brighter. But you had living room mode at 1581 lumens, vs. just over 1000 for the 6500UB. Were these measurements taken with different equipment? If so, do you know what the numbers would be if they were taken with the same equipment?
Thanks!
*********************
Hi, we measured with both old and new, as we are trying to figure out why we are getting such low measurements on the new meter and software. Actually, our Mike remeasured, and the two were virtually identical. Consider them the same. I hadn’t intended (I think, I’m a bit burned out from CES, and being up the night before until 4:20am finishing the 6100 review, before driving to Las Vegas at 10am) to use any of the “new” – “lower” numbers. I will review – the review and get things shipshape. As soon as it’s sorted out, we’ll start officially using the new gear, and post a “conversion factor” so we can all compare apples to apples. -art
January 10th, 2009 at 6:23 pm
Art,
I have an Optoma HD72 which is on its last leg. I bought an Epson 720 and then returned it because of the huge pixels and screen door effect. My HD72 has pixels only visible form a few feet away while the 720 were clear as day from 15 ft away. (I am using a 123″ goo systems digital grey lite screen.)
My questions are how will the pixel size compare to the two above mentioned projectors? Further how does pixel size compare with other projectors in this price range?
Thank you very much for your very well laid out and detailed reviews.
Chris
*****************
Greetings Chris,
OK, your IN72, of course, is a 480p projector. As such, it’s pixel structure (size of the pixels, relative to the screen size) is larger than 720p projectors. LCD panels on a 720p projector are far smaller (only about 42% of the size), but the LCD masks around the pixel are definitely more visible. With the 6100 you have another similar decrease in pixel size, relative to the Epson 720. At this point, the pixel structure is pretty much a non-issue. The newer LCD panels also inherently have slightly less visible pixel structures. I can say that I just don’t get any comments about screendoor or pixel structure issues from people with 1080p projectors be it LCD, DLP or the even less visible pixel structure of LCoS projectors.
So, even though you found it an issue with a 720p LCD projector, I doubt that would be a case with a 1080p LCD projector.
-art
January 12th, 2009 at 7:13 am
Hello again, Art
Subsequent to my post above, your review of the Epson 6100 came out. I bought it and am very happy with it so far. The menus are a bit daunting. To bring down the white glare I engaged Super White, which helps (the problem was only about 10 percent of what I experienced with my 4805 Infocus.
So, I don’t need a new screen. The LCD is more “filmlike than the 4805, but there IS motion blur with live action sports– which I did not experience at all with my DLP. A small price to pay. So, you may ignore the above post.
Ed
January 13th, 2009 at 9:04 am
Hi Art,
I currently have the Sharp DT-500, which as you know, is a 720p (actually 768) projector. You reviews the Sharp XV-Z300 very favorably and this unit is pretty much the same without the second iris.
I’m interested in making the jump to 1080p, but I’m not convinced that the picture will be that much better than what I have now. Would either the 6100 or the 6500 be an improvement? I’m projecting in a living room environment with very little light control so I basically wait until sundown to turn on the projector…some day I might be able to get my wife to let me put up some black out curtains or shades. Point being is that I need some horsepower for those late afternoon football games. I’m not a purist, but I certainly don’t want to take a step backwards in PQ just to be able to say I have a 1080p projector.
Thanks,
Brian
January 16th, 2009 at 5:16 am
I would like to follow up on a comment above by Ed. He says “there IS motion blur with live action sports…” I would like your opinion on this. Especially with the Super Bowl coming up I want a projector that does well for sports. I am looking forward to the competition comparisons on the review, but would appreciate input on the 6100 as a “Super Bowl” projector. Thanks.
******************
Sorry Brian, I’m weeks behind, and now, so is the superbowl.
yes, Ed is right, there is always motion blur. a tennis ball that crosses 100% of the screen horizontally, in a half second on a 100 inch wide screen is still (at native 60fps) having the ball appear 30 times each over 3 inches apart. Double that with creative frame interpolation, and it’s still a very small ball with spaces between each frame of 1.5 inches. From what I understand, depending on eye tracking, people, I assume, can still notice the spacing – and blur. There are a number of factors, and the biggest problem is probably processing when there’s a lot of non-linear fast motion going on. All that considered, I do slightly prefer to watch sports with the frame interpolation on, on the 6500UB. I put it up on my shelf in the main theater, pulling down my JVC for the event. Mind you, I didn’t do that for the frame interpolation, or any motion blur, but for the brightness. I had about 40 people over and wanted pretty decent lighting, and it worked out perfectly. Not sure if I had the Epson on low or medium setting – medium I think.
BTW, I have done side by sides with the Panasonic, and also the Epson, against other projectors without creative frame interpolation. I can see the difference, but to me, it’s very slight. Different folks, different response to the issue. Gee, I wonder how the first 500,000 of us have survived and loved our home theater projectors these last 6-7 years since the modern home theater projectors started selling. -art
January 16th, 2009 at 1:01 pm
Hi,
Thanks for all the great reviews on your site. I am using them to decide on a new projector because one of my Sanyo Z2 LCD panels is going. I’ve narrowed my choices to the Sanyo Z700 and the Epson 6100. Performance-wise I can go either way, leaning towards the Epson because of the black levels. Do you have any comments regarding reliability? Sanyo tech support blamed the failure on dirty filters or heat, neither of which were a problem (I cleaned the filters regularly and my basement — where the projector is — never gets hot).
January 17th, 2009 at 6:53 pm
Hi Art love the website, very informative.
I have the choice of buying the Sanyo PLVZ2000 or the Epson 6100 i know from your review that you loved the Sanyo, would you say that it is a better projector for movie watching (inorganic panels etc)
I am projecting in a light controlled room.
I have found a good deal on the Sanyo but i am still deciding which is the better projector could you give me some advice please. thanks nathan
January 19th, 2009 at 4:43 am
Art,
thanks for all the fantastic reviews. One question regarding the epson 6100. I intend to install it in a room with average light control and white walls. The PJ will be about 10 feet from the screen. What screen would you recommend in terms of size and material?
Thanks again for your precious help.
Emeric
******************
I like high contrast gray surfaces in general when there’s ambient light, however, they won’t help with light from the back of the room since that light is on roughly the same angles as the projector. Those screens do wonders though if your strongest light sources are on the side walls. Assuming a typical sized screen (around 100″ diagonal), you are close to the full wide angle, so you’ll be getting maximum lumens out of the Epson, which also will help. -art
January 21st, 2009 at 8:35 pm
Art,
Thanks for all your insight!
I need to pick up an inexpensive projector for showing movies in a large conference room in my synagogue. The back row could easily be 30′ from the screen.
I’d like to be able to use a 159″ 1.78 screen. I’m currently looking at a da-lite matte white (1.1 gain).
There will be a small amount of ambient light in the room (since I don’t want folks tripping if they need to leave the room).
Image quality is important, but less than price and sufficient brightness.
I’d like to stick to a 1080p projector, since the screen is so large.
Would you recommend the Epson 6100 for this role? Are there others that you think would do better for similar dollars (say < $3K)? (or am I just not going to find anything with sufficient punch in this price range?)
Also, should I be considering higher-gain screens for this application? (the viewing angle will be fairly narrow)
Thanks in advance!
– Bernie
*************
Greetings Bernie!
I’m going to assume your screen needs to be motorized or pull-down, not a fixed wall screen. Also, that the walls of your conference room are white or off-white. If so (screen type), get a tensioned one, a screen that isn’t really flat is very annoying on movies. In Livingroom or Dynamic mode, you can probably get by with the Epson 6100, with a 1.1 gain. I think though, you’ll be better off if you go with a higher gain, say 1.4 – 1.8. 1.3 – 1.4 whites have almost no roll-off. Consider for example, the Da-lite Cinema Vision (1.3 gain). I’m tempted to suggest a high contrast gray, to help with side ambient light (including bounce back from the projected image. It will make for a better picture, but you’ll still want one with some gain. That might be the best way to go. Closest thing in the the Da-lite line that would be the HC Cinema Vision (1.1 gain). (They also have a Video Spectra white with 1.5 gain, but I’m not really familiar with it. When I owned a dealership I had great luck with both Cinema Visions. -art
January 23rd, 2009 at 7:32 pm
I bought the 6100 after HHGregg ran a ridiculous sale right after Christmas. Art you were right on with your review. I didn’t think a projector could ever match my Panasonic 58 inch plasma, but this projector blows the plasma out of the water. I’m using a 120 inch white screen in a basement room with no windows and the 6100 is so bright I set the lamp to low and it still delivers a great image. The out of the box settings are some of the best I have seen. I would highly recommend this one to anyone. For the price, I don’t think you will find one any better.
Art, I am not experiencing the defocusing problem you wrote about. I focused it day one and it comes up clearly focused every night and does not appear to loose focus after 2 hours of use. Lamp has less than 25 hours though.
Keep up the great reviews!
**********
Randy, Thanks!
and Enjoy -art
January 26th, 2009 at 5:10 pm
Thanks for the review. I would like to know how is Epson 6100 compare to older generation Panny AE2000 especially in terms of black levels and shadow details. Thanks.
**********************
Greetings Alan,
Long time between reviews, but my money is on the Epson for better blacks. Still, they are in the same general range of black level performance, don’t expect a significant difference. The PT-AE2000 was pretty good for a “non-high contrast” LCD projector. -art
January 27th, 2009 at 2:54 pm
Aloha Alan.
Just built a 120″ diagonal 16:9 screen for my home out of Wilsonart Designer White, believe the gain to be 1.24 or 1.23.
Have an old Benq PB6200 which is used for office presentations but would like to purchase the Epson 6100 for HT for the home the planned distance from the projector to the screen is 21.5 ft.
The Benq with a new lamp is positioned 14.3 ft from screen and the brightness seems ok, not a great picture, running that on component to 15 pin. But once my children and the other heard a wild elephants return from college it will ge knocked over.
Question: Will we get a great picture or is it too far, if so what is optimum. Room is completely dark with lights off, but has low reflective medium green matt paint on walls and matt white on ceiling and trim. Will run projector on HDMI.
According to “Projector Central” my lumens will be 18 fL. We will be seating about 17.5 ft away.
Considering painting wall a light coffee with cream color on both ceiling and walls, as wife will not let me paint any darker.
I am very new to this so any help would be appreciated. Love your site(s), they have really helped.
********************************
Hi Paul (by the way, my name is Art, not Alan),
I’m catching up. The 6100 will blow the doors off of your BenQ in terms of brightness, more so because you probably have a ton of hours on it. Picture quality should be, conservatively, light years better than what you are used to.
Placement of 14 feet and change is very good for the 6100. That puts you about half way between mid-point zoom and closest (wide-angle), you’ll get even more lumens than at the mid-point where I measure.
Any darkening of walls, etc. will help, of course. You’ll be amazed how even just a few shades darker can make a difference. You could show your wife the shots of my room (you might get lucky in that she might like something relatively radical, once seen. The room is now painted in a rust color, faux finish, look in the recent JVC DLA-RS20 review in the HDTV section of the Image Quality page. My wife was very skeptical, turns out she loves it. We darkened the ceiling a few shades, and when the room is lit up, you don’t even notice, the eye still sees “off-white”.
As to cabling, there are plenty of hdmi cables today that can handle your distance, so why look for more headaches. Stick to a single cable, any really good one should have no problem. -art
January 27th, 2009 at 2:59 pm
Alan,
Apologies that should read 110″ diagonal screen.
January 27th, 2009 at 7:03 pm
Alan,
Last item I forgot to mention, setup is for movies only not TV.
Thank you
January 27th, 2009 at 7:32 pm
Alan,
I promise this is the last addition.
Would it be better to get one 35 ft (24 awg)HDMI category 2 cable and no repeater or two 20 ft (22 awg)HDMI category 2 and a repeater?
Thank you
February 1st, 2009 at 8:43 pm
Hi Art what would be better in terms of black levels and shadow detail between the Epson 6100 and the Sanyo PLVZ2000. I know the sanyo is not as bright but in terms of movie watching which would provide the better picture quality ?
Thanks nathan.
****************************
Nathan, that’s a tough one. It’s been too long on the Z2000. if I had to guess, I’d say that the two are about dead tie in black levels, and the Sanyo probably has the slightest edge in shadow detail. The Sanyo will also win in terms of being slightly sharper (very slightly). The Epson, on the other hand, is significantly brighter when both are in “best” modes, and completely blows away the Z2000 when you need a lot of lumens for dealing with ambient light. Good luck! -art
February 9th, 2009 at 2:02 pm
Art (got it right this time),
I did purchase the Epson 6100, based on your review and response, and honest and clear follow-ups. I am extremely happy with the decision and thank you for all the efforts you put into the review and follow-ups. The picture is crystal clear and your calibrations were very good after some adjustments for my particular situation.
The screen, a self built Wilsonart Designer white 110″ diagonal(gain 1.24), it is located at a throw of 20 ft and although closer would be better it would require some construction and permitting costs to mount it closer in on the ceiling. This is planned for later at a throw distance of around 14 ft. Despite the distance even in Theater 1 with your settings it is still a great picture (minor adjustments were made).
It has no convergence or missing pixel issues whatsoever. It might have a very slight de-focus issue over a long viewing time 3 hrs but so do my friends other more expensive projectors. The black on my black test came out really good better even than that shown on your review, why I do not know but there is a possible explanation that I will explain below.
It is married to a Samsung BD-2550 which gives a great picture even in 24 fps, a Pioneer VSX-1018TXH-K receiver, and a group of old but beautiful Mirage Speakers (M-7is as mains, M90-i as surrounds,MC-si as center channel with an old MK-V125 subwoofer. The combination works beatifully with no hand shake or sound issues.
Interstingly the HDMI cable that is currently used is a 25 ft Radio Shack Category 2 cable, very cheap for the length, a close-out sale item currently. The 6100 seems to do everything well except Wide Color, it gives too washed out a look. But that might be due to the cable length. As I am moving equipment this week or next, once the carpet person comes, the cable will need to be 3 ft only, so will test again.
Strangely my wife really likes the x.v. Color mode the best and while it is less rich than yours, which I personally prefer, it is pretty good for someone who is not into calibrating.
I bought it at a truely great price, from BB, and I will be entitled to Epson’s $200 rebate. I tried to buy it from BB before but they were out I went there the next day for something else and they had one only just come in .
So I am not sure if I have a fixed newer series number or just got lucky getting an older serial number that works well. This maybe why the blacks are so good.
A question, is it possible to check the firmware number and if so how? Also can the firmware be updated? There is nothing in the User Guide.
Your site(s)are great, nay the best.
Aloha and many thanks.
February 9th, 2009 at 2:49 pm
Correction:
Where I stated Wide Color it should read HDMI video range. Page 37 of the manual.
It could be that the Samsung BD-2500 cannot do a wider video range, or maybe no wide video movies exist and it is receiving no signal on that range, causing the washed out look.
Art if you know the answer to this it would be helpful.
Or maybe it might be better to connect the player’s audio to the reciever through the optical ports to allow a wider video range to pass. I will check on this and report back. Or as stated previously it could be the length of the cable
Thank you
****************************
You’re on your own on this one. I don’t have the answer, so I’ll look forward to your follow-up, and others will be interested to hear, as well. I doubt separating the audio will have any effect. Your image is digital, and therefore, either it works or doesn’t, for the most part. Not aware that a device would limit bandwidth of video to allow audio to pass. By any stretch, the audio pipeline is tiny by comparison. -art
February 10th, 2009 at 5:43 pm
Final Correction to above.
Your settings are much richer/fuller/better, even my wife agreed after watching various other movies but in a BBC TV series the x.y. setting did look nearly as good.
On the black level after some further minor tweaks I have to agee with your opinion on black level, that it is pretty good but not the finest.
But this weekend I plan to calibrate to the max so who knows. The yellow is a little too dark so will be working on that.
That is it.
February 18th, 2009 at 12:43 pm
As a Newbie, I am always searching online for articles that can help me. Thank you
February 22nd, 2009 at 3:10 pm
Art,
As promised I would come back with settings as apart from your’s they are few and far between on the internet. Posted settings for a distance of 17′8 1/16″ are here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15886616&posted=1#post15886616
I hope it helps your readers. The D65 eas a virtual bull’s eye.
Once again thank for a great site(s).
*************************************
Thanks Paul,
Folks, Paul has posted an alternate set of calibrations settings (different starting point, etc.). Those of you who are using my settings, might want to drop his, into a different user savable memory area, and compare. Feedback appreciated! -art