In the case of using CFI, this is the one area where Epson’s improved firmware for CFI doesn’t come into play. They left that setting alone. It still strips back to 24fps, then adds 4 new creative frames between each pair of original frames. (When working with 24fps from Blu-ray, the newer CFI firmware creates only 3 frames and takes it to 96fps. My best recommendation for viewing movies off of HDTV cable, is to turn CFI off. If from blu-ray, then either the low setting, or turn it off, whichever you prefer. -art

Well I have personally favored the 6500UB all along, although I consider the two basically equal but different. Definitely I favor the Epson for sports, you will appreciate the extra lumens, etc.
As to living in a small town, don’t feel bad, even in cities its near impossible to get a demo of the under $3000 or even under $5000 projectors. The local home theater specialists rarely have anything inexpensive to show, because they get overwhelmed with “internet shoppers” who come in and look, and buy online… and such is life. -art

Thanks Alex

The Epson should be fine, but I’m not a game player - the assorted manufacturers have been paying more attention to game playing this past year or two. That said, Panasonic is the company that’s really focused on game players. It may well be that the PT-AE3000 is better suited, and both are roughly comparable projectors (they shared our Best in Class award for mid priced 1080p projectors. Best of luck! -a

4:4 is basic frame interpolation. It simply repeats each frame 4 times to take 24 up to 96 fps. CFI makes each of the added frames different by comparing the original frame 1 and 2, and making the newly created frames 1a, 1b, 1c, each slightly different, to smooth out the motion of fast moving objects. 4:4 doesn’t help in that regard. There is a second type of motion blur, which apparently affects some more than others, and relates to the workings of the eye. the 24 to 96 fps apparently helps with that separate motion blur, but does nothing for smoothing motion. -art

Apologies if this has already been answered, but I haven’t been able to find it.

I’m curious to know what the differences are between 4:4 pull-down and CFI Low (using firmware 1.09), primarily with 1080p/24 movies.

Which do you recommend?

Thank you

I gues (hope) I dont see much of the flaws you describe but I have some other questions than the ones i see around..

I can put the throw distance at 6.5m (21′ 4″) The screen size desired is 3×2.25m to be able to switch 4:3 (on the full screen) or 16:9 (same width but screen pulled down partitialy, frame painted black.) Will the normal dvd’s (480) still look good on such a big screen? (I seen the pixels generated by a cheap, way to close positioned PJ and thats not to watch.) Are there recommended screensizes related to the lines shown ie 480 vs 1080? Can this wow effect as i seen in the demo room be reached more or less with regular dvd’s? (forgot to ask what carrier the movie was on, BD i gues)

Regards,

me
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Greetings!

Well, that’s one large screen - roughly 10 feet wide so approaching 135 inch diagonal. I find the 6500UB, in “best” mode, struggles with my 128″ firehawk, and is best at a slightly smaller size (and then, there’s the fact that the lamp will dim over time. Still, you can get an excellent picture from the Epson in some of its intermediate picture modes.

As to clarity - well, the key thing is seating distance relative to image size. Even a conventional TV, say 32 inch diagonal, with a DVD looks razor sharp 15 feet away. My point being - seating distance is a key factor.

I sit 11.5 feet from my 128″. While there is no question as to the difference in sharpness/detail/etc., between standard DVD and Blu-ray, standard DVDs are definitely very watchable. Most likely when you viewed the low cost projector, it was only 720p, so, if LCD technology, the projector’s own pixels were rather noticeable. That won’t be the case with 1080p, where you have 2.25 pixels for every 1 pixel with 720p, and that means much smaller pixels. You’ll still spot them easily on things like white credits on a dark background, or on the various signage (for scores, player info) when watching your soccer.

Hope that helps! -art

I need to thank you for all your help on me landing the 6500UB. It is a brilliant projector and glad I fought for it! Thank you.

Couple things:

- the calibration settings you posted in the review… are those recommended? I am considering using them, although must admit, with minimal calibration from the installer, this thing sings!!! Detail is amazing. (I am looking to possibly get the blacks a touch more ‘inky’ and picture smidgen sharper - or maybe just buying glasses finally LOL!).

- regarding this Update, Epson would only ‘grant’ this to the actual projector owner, as my installer tried and failed to receive it so they could sort this out on their last visit. If this is true, its sounds like serial port route is the least hassle? I also understand all your current settings will be lost once updated, correct? I am trying to balance the justification of the update, as presently I just have the CFI turned off.

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Greetings Eric!

OK, first I presume your installer isn’t an Epson authorized dealer. I went the serial port route to upgrade the 6500UB. Had to make a run to radioshack for the null modem cable, but it works!

Next, write down all the settings that your installer put in - both from the main picture/image menu, and the advanced, including picture mode (Theater Black1, etc.) brightness contrast tint saturation color temp, gamma (2.3 or 2.4) and the individual two settings each for Red green and blue. If he went more in depth then there’s also the individual color settings (but it sounds like not).

Once you install the new firmware - yes all settings are lost. take the settings your installer put in, and put them back in, and save in one of the 10 user savable memories.

Next, now put in all the settings from our review, and save in a different user area. Try them both, and see which one you like better. We also have settings for LivingRoom (two versions I think - mine, and mikes), and one for Dynamic.

Color saturation I believe will be affected to some degree by screen type. I normally watch on a high contrast gray, and reduce the color saturation relative to watching on my other screen, a Carada Brilliant white (1.4 gain). Anyway, happiness with color saturation should fall somewhere between -3 and -9 (not a really drastic difference). I sometimes adjust from movie to movie… if I find one too saturated, or not enough.

As to CFI, ahh, you’ll get around to it sooner or later, so why not make it sooner, and be done with it?

OK, thanks for the feedback! Keep us posted! -art