No, I think today’s few 3D ready projectors will be able to handle NVidia 3D for games, etc. And some other protocols. I’ve got some 3D content that uses S-Video, and it works. Not real high quality, but…

Naw, perhaps at CEDIA we’ll see some “safe” 3D capable projectors. And we have to see what the LCD and LCoS folks do about it. The “3 chip” devices rely on polarization for a lot of things, whereas single chip DLP’s do not. You may see LCD projectors that are really two projectors in one (two each R,G,B), firing alternately. We shall see.

The good news – think what a great little “second projector” the HC3800 will be in a couple of years. Got another room? -art

Thanks for the effort you put into all of this! I ended up buying an HC3800 based on your review of that and of the HD20 – I haven’t had a chance to mount it yet (theater still under construction) but I’m looking forward to it.

One thing I hadn’t thought of when I bought it though (Avatar wasn’t out yet heh), do you know if the HC3800 is 3D capable? I’ll be keeping it either way for at least a few years at this point, just curious what I have to work with really.

Do you know of any 3D projectors that are starting to come out if this one isn’t 3D capable?

Thanks again!
Dan

Screen, or Neutral Density filter? Hmm, I’ve never worked with ND’s with projectors, though they were popular with enthusiasts 5+ years ago, mostly to limit brightness, for the purpose of having passable black levels. I would suggest, bringing in the projector first. Try it on the wall (hang a sheet if your wall is colored, etc. Get a feel before you decide on a screen, etc. Remember, your mix of types of content you watch are a big factor. I’d kill to have my JVC RS20 be capable of anything even resembling 29 ft.-lamberts on my 128″ screen, for sports viewing, but I appreciate that you might find it too bright for movie watching. As to the gray surface, yes they are inherently darker – a .8 gain screen immediately takes you from your 29 lumens to about 23, for example. And that’s still probably dimmer than any current model LCDTV.
But, we’re not talking LCDTV here. Before you decide – is the HC3800 a long term purchase, or do you “have the bug” and it’s only a projector you plan to have a year or two. (I’m thinking in terms of screen commitment). Obviously using an ND filter poses no real issues beyond the cost of the filter and mounting it. A screen decision based on brightness, makes sense, if you plan on keeping the projector a good while, or are willing to commit that it’s replacement will also have to be pretty bright. -art

Brilliant Color (in its many forms – and not always called that) is TI’s core “engine” for enhancing performance. It likely affects many features, and seems, in most cases to behave dynamically. Thus turn brilliant color on, and you might see more color saturation, higher contrast, possibly dynamic contrast, etc.

Some projectors have a single off/on option on Brilliant Color, others offer as many as off, plus 10 steps of Brilliant Color.

On almost all projectors, engaging BC ends up providing brighter lumen measurements. In many cases, though, Brilliant Color, is over the top, especially at higher settings. In almost all cases BC off, is more “natural” but, with some projectors, BC on is still a rather excellent looking image, more than suitable for movie watching. When Mike measures and calibrates, in most cases he’s got the freedom to decide whether to calibrate BC on or off. If he finds it over the top, he’ll calibrate with it off. If not, he’ll normally leave it on.
It is often said that DLPs are more filmlike than 3LCD projectors. That may well be the case, with BC off, but often not, with it on. The HC3800 is an example of a very good watchable image with BC on. You may still like it better with BC off, but it is pretty darn good.
We have only so much time and resource. Most projectors have an almost infinite number of settings options, and a large number of very good ones. As such we do one calibration, for a best mode, and a second “quick-cal” for a brightest mode, that is supposed to be a compromise between that mode’s out of the box color, and the ideal color, but, with a focus on getting the best color possible – WITHOUT significantly reducing lumens.

As to the example, you have to first understand that 6500K is the target for movies and much other material. So that’s what you want. However, the 362 degree color difference between BC on and Off, is very slight. Side by side you would notice only that with BC off, reds would be just a touch stronger than with BC On. So, the important point is, that it’s a small difference not a large one. And, of course, had Mike felt BC off made more sense for this projector, he would have calibrated the projector with BC off, to hit the 6500K target. And, if he did that, then turning BC on would probably result in a color temp in the 6800-6900 range. Still pretty good. For the bucks the HC3800 does a particularly good job on movies, with it’s very good for the price, but no match for more expensive projector black level performance. Unless you move up to something like the BenQ W6000 (in a DLP) or Epson, or Panasonic ultra high contrast LCD projectors, the lower cost HC3800 is a very good choice. -a