Mitsubishi HC6000 Home Theater Projector Review
HC6000 Projector - Remote Control
The HC6000′s remote is better than average.
There are discrete buttons for On and Off, as well as an Auto Position button on the top row. Then come two rows allowing direct access of the different sources (DVI, HDMI, Computer, etc.)
The fourth row has three buttons, one for each User saveable memory.
The four arrow keys and center Enter button for navigating the menus.
Below that, left side is the Menu button, a button to select different Iris options and Aspect ratio change. Next come two more rows, including Contrast Brightness, Color Temp, Gamma, Sharpness and Color (saturation). Basically most features on the Image menu, can be directly accessed without going through the Main and Image menus.
The last row has one button that toggles between controlling the lens’ Zoom and Focus (arrow keys handle the actual adjustment), another for controlling the Lens shift, and finally a Noise Reduction button.
I found that I was able to access most of the controls – including the Menu and arrow keys without having to shift my hand on the remote – something all remotes should strive for. Hitting any button engages the backlight – moderately bright, no problem there.
I also found that there was sufficient spacing in the remote that I could easily find the Menu button as well as the arrow keys/Enter buttons without having to look at the remote.
Range of the remote, however was average. With the projector about 17 feet from the screen and my seating positon 11 feet from the screen (28 feet total), I had only occasional success bouncing the remote’s signal off of my screen and wall, to the projector. Mostly I had to point it rear. Note though at slightly shorter total distances, it became reliable. Thus I would say that if you are using a 100″ or 110″ screen you should have better luck!
HC6000 Lens Throw and Lens Shift
Lens throw: For a 100″ 16:9 diagonal screen; the zoom lens will allow the projector, measured from the front of the lens, to be as close as 10 feet 3 inches and as far back as 16 feet 5 inches. As noted earlier, the zoom and focus are motorized, as is the lens shift. The lens shift feature has an unusually large adjustment range, a real plus. This allows the projector, (measured from the center of the lens) to be placed anywhere from significantly below to significantly above the screen surface. Overall the range is approximately 160% of screen height. For that 100″ diagonal screen, for example, the center of the lens can be anywhere between about 13″ below the bottom of the surface, to about 13″ above the top. There is a small amount of horizontal lens shift as well, certainly more than you need to compensate for the off center lens, when mounting. The HC5000BL gets an “A” for placement flexibility..
Mitsubishi HC6000 SDE and Rainbow Effect, Pixel Visibility
The HC6000, being an LCD projector, has no spinning color filter wheel, and therefore, no rainbow effect.
When it comes to pixel visibility and the Screen Door Effect, the HC6000 performs extremely well, by virtue of being a 1080p projector. While sitting my usual 11 feet from my 128″ diagonal Stewart Firehawk, pixels (barely visible on occasion on my 720p resolution DLP), were essentially gone! Only on credits could I really spot them when looking, and couldn’t pick them out during normal movie or sports content. As a result, let’s say this projector can comfortably be watched at just over 1 times screen width. That should make everyone (like me) who like to sit close in order to have a huge image, and better immerse themselves in the image, to be extremely pleased! After all, that’s what front projectors are all about. (Why watch one of those tiny 50″ LCDTVs – they just don’t give you that theater effect!) The only LCD projector I have seen with less visible pixels is the Panasonic PT-AE1000U (also 1080p) using their smooth screen technology, and the Mitsubishi overall, is much sharper.
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