InFocus IN83 Projector with 1080p Darkchip4, OMG! First Look

Greetings all, 

I can tell you right now, InFocus has released a first class projector.  I already liked the IN82, and here comes it’s Darkchip4 “version”, called the IN83.  So far, I’m pretty much “blown away”.  


Remember, please, this is a very preliminary “first look” based on a couple of hours of untouched, “out of the box” settings, and then some minor tweaking, and more watching but without calibrating the IN83.  In fact, I’m normally not that good at “tweaking” by eye, without software or gear.

I decided that while the “out of the box” color accuracy was pretty good, it was a bit strong on greens and yellow, relative to the reds.  The skin tones therefore came out a little pasty, and pale, sort of just slightly grayish.  So, what I did, was to eyeball the slight problems and correct the color balance of R,G,B gain and 

offset, by eye.  As I said, I’m not great at that, (especially since each projector’s controls tend to be have differently, and the gain and offset controls affect one another).

Turns out, in five minutes I had near perfect color, without using calibration gear.  After a few more hours of watching, the projector went to Mike for the calibration (it saves me a ton of time, and besides, he helped me learn calibration a few years back, so I know I can trust his work).

Mike brought it back, impressed that I had gotten all the gain settings virtually identical to what his formal calibration did (ok, 1 pat on the back, for me), although I didn’t do quite as well with the R,G, and B offsets.

Here’s the point.  In the last 48 hours, I have probably watched at least 10 hours of the IN83, post calibration.  I have never encountered a projector with color accuracy, and skin tones as good as this InFocus IN83.  Some projectors are easier to calibrate than others, so to some extent, it might be due to my calibration skills (and that Mike is better at it than I am), but whatever the reason, this IN83 is something to behold!

I mean, it would hard to imagine further improvement.  Whether skin tones, or the reds and blues of an american flag – getting a really perfect red on an American flag, is something, beyond the ability, for example, of my own JVC RS1.

It gets better still:  

The InFocus IN83 is bright – 1100 lumens in best mode, after calibration, (with the manual iris wide open)!  No doubt, all that horsepower, influences my enthusiasm, although I did knock the iris down to 55% for much of the viewing (still brighter than most of the competition, Optoma HD81-LV nothwithstanding).  

But, I’m not prepared to comment on black levels yet.  Since the projector is so bright, in best mode, the blacks are also brighter than would be on a projector with comparable black level handling, but a dimmer projector.  Based on recollection, the IN83’s black levels are almost certainly  better than the IN82 (a good thing, although the IN82 is pretty good).  

The real question is whether the IN83 can match or beat the black levels of the Epson Home Cinema 1080 UB I have here, or my JVC RS1.  I don’t know yet, but this evening it will be Epson vs InFocus, side by side, on the Carada Brilliant white, and I’ll be shooting images.

Remember this is a manual iris projector – no dynamic iris issues, although if InFocus had the foresight to put a first class dynamic iris on this projector, it might well be, overall, the best projector on the market (under $10K), and possibly by a noticeable margin.  I’m figuring that already really good black levels, if enhanced with a dynamic iris, it should at least rival, and probably beat both the Sony VW60 and the JVC RS1x, and who knows – perhaps even the JVC RS2.  Hey, it may be as good as those, as is, I just can’t be sure, yet. (I am pretty certain that its black levels are not as good as the JVC RS2.

But, that’s all conjecture (aren’t blogs great)?  I will know, soon enough.

For those interested in the overall package of the IN83, but can’t wait, just read the bulk of the IN82 review and stay tuned for the IN83 full review.  

Out of the box color is slightly different, and it measured just slightly less bright, but physically, its basically the same projector with just about all the same controls (maybe all, haven’t gotten that far yet).

Let me say this – if the black levels pan out to match the RS1, then, this is probably my new, favorite projector under $10K.  Flawless color, and tons of lumens, (and I forgot to mention, a very sharp image) If the JVC RS2, my, to date, top rated projector, can only do slightly better black levels than the IN83, then the InFocus will likely be the preferred choice for most people, because of twice the available brightness.  

From my perspective so far, I would almost certainly consider replacing my RS1 with the IN83, but for my sensitivity to the Rainbow Effect.  While I owned DLP’s for years, and consider RBE only a minor, occasional annoyance, it would be hard to go back to a DLP for that reason, after a year of no rainbows at all.

Oh, and yes, it supports Deep Color and 24fps!

That’s it until the review is posted.  Friday the 4th, late, hopefully (but don’t count on it).  Those of you who are regular readers, know I have a tendency to be optimistic.  At worst case, next Tuesday evening (a lot going on this weekend).

Everyone (in the US) have a great 4th of July weekend.  And, the rest of you, have a great weekend as well.  -art

PS, one last thing – the Olympics are only 6 weeks out.  Those of you just sitting around on the fence, trying to decide what to buy, just remember, the Olympics in hi-def should be something to behold. That makes the Olympics a great excuse to finally pull the trigger, and get your projector sooner, rather than later.

News and Comments

  • Frank Marasco

    Thanks Art- looking forward to your full review as always. I purchased the In83 about 2 months ago and absolutely love it- compared it to the RS1 and the picture just seemed to have more pop and was sharper. That said there is a flaw with brilliant color that creates some posterization in some low level scenes. I know it’s there- replicated it several times but please validate and do you know if a firmware release is coming to address this?

  • Scott

    Just a quick question after reading the full review – BTW, thanks once again, Art! You state that it has a 5X color wheel, projector central states 4X, and InFocus has no info published on their site. I do see rainbow effects, but the 5X may help – I was looking into the RS2, and just for bang-for-the-buck reasons, also the Pro Cinema 1080UB. (I see the low lumens as a major flaw of the RS2 as I will use it for sports, HD broadcasts, gaming, etc, and do not want the “bat cave” scenerio.

    Anyways, I have been eyeing this one for some time, but I’m not a huge fan of DLP’s. This has been garnering some great user reviews out there, and well, your review just moved this projector to the top of my short list – but a 4X (so outdated) color wheel scares me. RBE isn’t huge, but it’s there – at least on all of the sub 5X wheel systems I’ve seen. Thx! And keep up the great work.


    Yes the color wheel issue is getting more tricky, especially now that we are seeing 4, 5, 6, and 7 slice wheels. In speaking with InFocus, it may actually be that the wheel is only 3X! However, they point out, that as a 7 segment wheel even at 3x or 4x is effectively “faster” than a 5x wheel with just primary colors (RGB) or 4 color wheel (with a white slice).

    From a practical standpoint, I can tell you that the IN83 seems be better than the older 5X wheels with less colors, in terms of my seeing rainbows. I owned the BenQ PE8720 and other DLP HT projectors.

    It definitely isn’t as rainbow free as the 6x wheel in the Optoma HD81-LV, but it is good enough, in terms of rainbows, at least for me, that I’m considering unloading my JVC RS1, for the IN83, at this point in time. Favoring the even better color accuracy, and far more lumens over some slight rainbow, and very good, but not as good as the RS1’s black levels. -art

  • Scott

    Art, after your full review, can you confirm the speed of the color wheel? 4X or 5X?


    Will do! -art

  • Keith Willis

    Hi Art, I’ve been reading your reviews for the past 6 months with my intention to buy my first projector and screen. I took the plunge and bought a Infocus IN83 and a 7 foot fixed screen from Projecta. I hooked it up to my PS3 and Primare V20 player using Chord cables. In a word “STUNNING”. Anybody else out there like myself who has been thinking about buying their first projector – do it! I’ve just watched the new Rambo film on Blu-Ray and was absolutely amazed at the quality of the picture. Many Many thanks for all of your reviews. Keep up the good work.

    Keith Willis (from Scotland)

  • What are the best projectors for hockey,football first then movies second and why?

    Greetings Darryl, Huge question, much of the website is dedicated to answering it. May I suggest you go through the 1080p comparison report from this past spring. If your budget is more in the 720p range (under $1500), then try last year’s reports (little new this year in 720p projectors – modest improvements and several brands didn’t even bother to upgrade their 720p products.

    bottom line 1080p if in your budget. For sports, unless you like watching in a “cave” – a fully darkened room – brightness is important. Projectors have “best” darkest modes, and always a brightest mode (whatever they call it, and usually some in the middle. Sometimes the brightest mode still has very good color, sometimes it needs to be tamed by end user calibration – $40 or so for a disc almost anyone can figure out and do in an hour.

    If 720p, the Panasonic PT-AX200U is the brightest, with the Epson Home Cinema 720 not far behind, also the Optoma HD71. There are lots of trade-offs, but since the reviews all talk about the competition, you should be able to sort it out. If 1080p, same thing, but the hot products are the SAnyo Z2000, but it’s one of the least bright, but by far the least expensive 1080p. The new Mitsubishi HC5500, or the just discontinued HC4900. Last year’s Epson if you can find one at a great price is also an excellent choice (very bright, again, in its brightest mode), and their newer one, with the UB designation, is much better, but in ways that will appeal to movie watchers, and really doesn’t come into play with sports viewers.

    Good luck! -a

  • Russ B.

    Im looking at the HC5500 from Mittsu or considering upgrading to a Mitsu HC6000 or finally your suggestion of a Infocus IN83. The question, have you finished your review of the in83? Is it now your pick. I respect your opinions and appreciate your work.

  • we bought a sp-lamp-018 it just exploded in the machine!
    why is this advertised as an 4000 hr lamp when it appears that no one can get more than 600 to 700 hrs?
    I have just had my second one go out this time I got a whopping 300 hrs on it the first one had 600+
    is there a bulb that gives a bit more hours for 300.00? so far I just paid 1.00 an hr
    what can we do about this?
    I have checked the internet and it appears that I am not the only one with this problem.
    I have a total of 900 hours and have paid more than 600.00 for just bulb replacement if I replace it again the I will have paid enough to have purchased a new machine. Why are the performance of these bulbs so bad? Do I need to get a different machine? Or is there a bulb that will last longer?
    This machine has had 3 bulbs if you count the one that came with it new! Not good at all average life has been 300 hrs. more than 30 days each but no hours at all for $300.00 I just dont know if i need a new machine or what since Infocus wont really say why or even anser emails i would be willing to pay 350 or 400 for a bulb but not for 300 hrs of service. I have checked every thing the voltage is fine there is lots of space to keep it cool i clean ir every 2 weeks use the low setting and not use it much. I have had the last bulb for 8 months and got 300 + hrs. where do I go now what do i do Ihad to say I spent all the money I have on this system and full sized wall screen…… for nothing I hear that the Planar PR5020 DLP Projector – 3000 Lumens has great reviews and one even boasts the bulb will last as long as they you know anything about this one Too
    Please help I know I am not the only one out there that is having the same problem!!!!

    Greetings Robert!

    Ok, this is the first I have heard of a lamp problem from InFocus.

    Can you tell me which projector you have? That’s a starting point.

    Most recent InFocus projectors come with a 6 month warranty on their lamps, although the “industry standard” is 90 days. I’m assuming you have an X2, or X3, definitely older projectors, when InFocus offered only 90 days. I did look up the warranty of the SP-018 lamp, and can confirm that, according to the InFocus website, that lamp comes with a 90 day warranty. I mention all this, because you mention 30 days in your comment above.

    Of course we reviewers don’t get to keep projectors very long, so when a projector has a real lamp problem, we don’t normally run across it (few projectors I review arrive with more than a few hours on the lamp). The last time I recall a serious lamp problem was the old BenQ PE-7700 2-3 years ago. I got heavily involved with that situation, and if it looks like this is a problem affecting a large number of owners, I will again. You indicated that others have reported this problem online. Can you provide me a link, so I can get up to speed.

    There is no good reason at all for lamps to be failing in 300 or 500 hours. Most lamps are rated 2000 hours at full power, and that means mostly that 50% will make it to that amount of hours or more, and 50% won’t get there. That said, a lamp failing at 300 or 400 hours should be extremely rare, voltage problems, etc., not withstanding. (BTW, are you running with the projector plugged in through a good surge protector or power conditioner?)

    In the case of that BenQ, almost no one with a PE7700 had a lamp that made it to 800 hours, BenQ recognized the problem, and eventually upgraded every machine. Whether this is a similar situation, or uncommon, we shall have to see. Since I haven’t run into this one before, I would tend to suspect it has something to do with your projector, rather than the lamps themselves, since the projectors using that lamp have been around for a couple of years and change. When I say “your projector” it could well tie to a bad batch, rather than one isolated case. Even one firmware version could have a problem that others do not. Get back to me with the link where this is being discussed, and I’ll do my best to follow up. -art

  • Jimbo

    Priorities: Need projector & screen for DVD movies & DVD TV shows ONLY. No cable, satelite or broadcast TV at all, zippo, none, absolutely no interest. Unless I’m missing something, no Blu Ray interest because it seems most of my program material will not be available in that format. Basement has sum total one small window; most light can be blocked. Heard that bulb longevity is an issue because of dry 5k’ elevation; also that projectors w/ multiple fan speeds should be set on high & some such projectors are excessively noisy. Quiet is preferred because this home is very quiet, though I realize the soundtrack masks fan noise.

    Should I save the money that would otherwise be spent on Blu-Ray technology?

    Projector short list, $1k to $3k range?

    Screen: Perforation required; center speaker is standmount only, wall pocket impossible. Attach to ceiling &/or floor ONLY; no wall attachment.

    Screen must be either:
    Regractable, approximately 77″ to 92″ range diagonal OR
    Fixed, 100″ range diagonal

    Many thanks!


    Greetings Jimbo,

    Geez you are making me think hard.

    First, I am a big proponent of blu-ray. There is much more than just a sharper, higher resolution image, with blu-ray. Overall, image quality is superior. Upscaling standard DVD is fine, whether by upscaling DVD player, or letting the projector do it, but it still doesn’t bring the picture quality up near blu-ray. Ultimately, the call is yours. While the selection of titles on blu-ray is still fairly limited, most major flicks of the last couple of years are now available, as well as a number of older movies. Based on a quick search online, it looks like there are currently between 1300 and 1600 titles available. That may only be a few percent of the total number on standard DVD, but probably represent the titles that make up 30 – 50% of all current DVD sales. (Sorely missing is Lord of the Rings, which would probably add a couple more percent to the total.) Since you worded it “most of my program material”, I am assuming that you are really into movies, and have a wide range of tastes, and therefore you are correct that much of what you are looking for won’t be available yet. Still, your blu-ray player, be it dedicated or a Sony PS3, will still be happy to play your standard DVDs. BTW, read recently that they expect blu-ray sales to surpass standard DVD in 2012, for what that’s worth to you.

    OK $1000 – $3000 is a huge pricing range. You’ll have to decide. If you are going standard DVD, and no blu-ray, for the foreseeable future (2-3 years), then you might just want to save, and buy one of the 720p projectors which currently sell from under $800 to $1300. My reviews all have competitive sections in the summary page, as well as comments relating to various competition, thoughout the review, to help you.

    All else being equal, if you want to make the move now, probably the best deal around is the “closeout” on the Epson Home Cinema 1080 UB. Great black levels very bright in brightest mode, and overall a standout projector. Currently its going for around $2100 net price (after $300 rebate, and after valuing the spare lamp (you can use!) at $350. Because it’s a rebate and free lamp, though, your out-of-pocket is still going to be in the upper $2000’s, even if the net is less. There are of course many alternatives, but that’s definitely a hot one. Check out my 1080p comparison piece. Although new models are starting to ship, those new reviews will have comments about how they compare to the models in that comparison published earlier this year.

    Assuming the Epson meets your other requirements, it’s hard to beat. As to screens I’m less of an expert there. I imagine someone makes fixed screens that can be ceiling mounted instead of wall, but never looked into it.

    Motorized and pulldown screens: virtually all can be ceiling mounted, though some will require additional, optional brackets while others may already include them. Since you are not going with a large screen, you’ll have plenty of brightness. Myself, I recommend large screens when practical. The bigger – relative to where you sit, the more immersive the watching. Match the screen to your room and projector. Each projector review has comments regarding screens, on the General Performance page.

    Best of luck -art

  • my in26+ (1.1 sp-lamp-028 )
    is now at 3048 hrs and still going
    set at eco mode
    never moved, in a good air flow stand5 fee from ground level for +/-7 mounts
    left it on 24 hrs a day often
    for mor info [email protected]
    price for new lamp is 249.00

  • I am interested in an equipment and would want to know to how mmuch? and in stories day arrives to me at Miami… Im serious interested.
    thanks and wait for your e-mail.
    the maching is… InFocus IN83 Projector with 1080p Darkchip4



    Greetings Henry,

    We only review, and do not sell projectors. You’ll need to find an authorized dealer. InFocus has a list on their website: -art

  • Sixkeys


    I am new to the world of blogging and so if I get a bit off-topic, I apologize in advance. I work as the A/V Technician at a large Public School District in NY. There are ten schools in our district and we are using InFocus projectors exclusively. I read one of the blogs above with great interest. It was from a Robert Phillips and he was (justifiably) upset with the SP-LAMP-018 bulbs that he has been using in his (more than likely) X2 projector. We have 106 X2’s still in use (all projectors in the District are ceiling-mounted) and so I am VERY familiar with the peculiarities of those bulbs. He claims that he cleans his projector regularly and I assume that means not only does he remove the dust from inside the projector itself but it also must be removed from the filters on either side of that bulb. But before you do ANYTHING with an X2 bulb, you must let it cool down. It wasn’t until after we installed the ceiling mounts and projectors in over 100 classrooms and bulbs were blowing out like we were microwaving popcorn that we realized what the problem was…we were not shutting down the projector using the rocker switch every night. Teachers would use their remotes at the end of the school day to “soft power” the machine off. What we didn’t know then, but sure do now, is that after you soft power it down using the remote, you must wait AT LEAST 15 to 30 minutes before shutting it off with the rocker switch. As it turns out, the dustiest time of the day in a school classroom is in the evening when the custodians come in and sweep up. Since the fan continues to run 24/7 on an X2, you must use the rocker switch to shut it down and prevent all that dust from being drawn in by the fan. I ordered 120 three-foot pointers and we printed up directions for each room with an X2, asking that every teacher, before they leave for the evening, reach up with the pointer and shut the projector off using the rocker switch. Of course, the one caveat was…the projector HAS to have been cooling for at least 15 minutes (the book on the X2 recommends you wait one hour!) before you hit that switch. So my advice to Robert would be, don’t shut off the projector or unplug it until the bulb has cooled WAY down. And don’t MOVE the projector if the bulb is still hot. Since we implemented this “pointer plan”, the amount of bulbs that we have had to replace has dropped about 75%. I’d say that’s a good reason to handle these babies like they’re made out of red-hot glass (which they are). We (the district) have moved away from those X2’s and for the last two or three years have been purchasing IN24’s and IN24+’s. Two completely different bulbs (SP-LAMP-024 for the IN24’s and the SP-LAMP-028 for the + series) and we have our hands full once again. This time, instead of the bulbs “popping”, the machines just “Go To Red” which means that the red light on the projector comes on, disabling the projector. I have had this happen at least 50 times in the last two years. And even though that red light flashing is supposed to mean that the bulb burned out, nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, not one bulb has burned out yet. The filtering system inside the IN24 Series is different than that on the X2 but the principle is the same…they clog up with dust and then shut down because the machine is overheating and it is protecting the bulb. Waiting for the unit to cool, climbing up on my ladder, removing the machine from its’ mount and taking off the bracket allows me access to the bulb. I remove it, vacuum inside the housing where all the tiny little filters are clogged and also vacuum off the filter on the bulb itself. Put it all back together, re-install it and voila!…it works just fine until the filters clog again. But at least we’re not blowing bulbs as often. This year we ordered IN2102EP’s which is InFocus’s latest addition to the “Educational Product (EP)” line. Slightly more lumens and the claim of less dust=less maintenance. We’ll see. Also, access to the bulb WITHOUT removing the whole unit from the ceiling mount. Better warranty on the bulb also and the price of a new bulb is around $180.00, much less than the X2 bulb (the bulb for the IN2102EP is SP-LAMP-039). With over 500 projectors hung throughout the District and more coming in every year, it has become my full-time occupation. So Robert, I think you should take advantage of the trade-in package that InFocus offers, although to be honest, I have no idea if they will take an X2 in exchange for anything based on its age. But a new, brighter, better quality machine with a better warranty on both the machine AND the bulb should set you back about $500.00. Yes, I know that’s a lot but at the rate you’re blowing those 018 bulbs, this seems like the better way to go. I hope this helps because I know full well how frustrating it is trying to get an answer from anyone anywhere. LET THE BULB COOL OFF BEFORE YOU SHUT THE POWER OFF WITH THAT ROCKER SWITCH- 15 minutes minimum, one hour is optimal. Handle them gently and clean them often. Best of luck to you…


  • Max


    what is the color wheel speed for the Infocus IN83? I can’t find a concrete answer anyway. Is it 5x like you say in your review? 3x like you say here on this blog? 2x like projectorcentral says? And if it’s really 3x or even 4x doesn’t that mean it’s disastrous in terms of rainbow effects?

    Please get back to me here on this site because I don’t know where else I’d check. Thank you so much!

    Hi Max the telepath!

    The IN83 has a 4x wheel, as confirmed by InFocus. I thought I had corrected that on my site, but will double check and do so shortly.

    BTW, the number and color of segments on a color wheel, does impact the sensitivity for people seeing rainbows, but I’ve never been able to get a good handle on the trade-offs. I found the IN83 to be very reasonable – I’m rainbow sensitive, and do see them occasionally while viewing (on the right type of material). I didn’t find it to be any worse, say than the two BenQ projectors I owned previously (both with 5x wheels, but different number of segments). Only the Optoma HD81-LV (I think) with its claimed 6x wheel, reduced my seeing rainbows to a point where it was rare, rather than occasional. -art

  • Mack

    Art how do you think the BENQ W20000 stack up to the IN83?(which one review site said was also better than the RS1 and the IN82)


    Pricing notwithstanding, I’d have to go with the IN83.

    I’ve always been a BenQ fan, and have owned two 720p BenQ’s in the past. I really liked the W20000, but I never got it to look as good (natural) as the IN83. With a more in-depth calibration (which we don’t do) of dealing with each individual primary and secondary color’s properties, might make them really comparable, but there’s always the brightness difference as well.

    I’m going by memory now, so I might be wrong on this, but I believe the BenQ uses the usual 200 watt lamp, typical of DLP projectors, while the InFocus has a 300 watt lamp so it has a chunk more lumens (never a bad thing), especially since both have manual irises. -a

  • Mike

    Hi Art,
    thanks for the great in depth review of the Infocus IN83 projector. I am pretty sure this is the one for my needs. I have a couple of questions for you. This will be my first projector purchase and it will go into my living room and would like it to be our main video source. Are projectors in general and especially this one good for everyday use? Also, is there a particular screen (95″-110″) that would work well in a room with some ambient light issues? Thanks for the help with this.

    Hi Mike, First, you will have plenty of lumens for “some” ambient light – this is one of the brightest home theater projectors around, and your screen size is very moderate. As to using it for general viewing. Well, yes, but you most certainly will like HDTV signals one heck of a lot more than standard definition TV. The difference there, is greater than between standard DVD and Blu-ray. If you can enjoy standard TV when you watch it, then the answer to your question is a definite YES.

    Just remember, no one ever intended standard TV definition to be viewed on a 100″ screen at 10-18 feet. It’s just low res. Hey, even a 32 Sony conventional (non-HD) TV from 15 years ago, looks razor sharp when viewed at 20 feet. -art

  • Dorth

    Hi all, we have an infocus in82, my husband loves it!! Recently we have been having problems with the projector overheating…the temp. light goes on and it shuts off….is there a way to clean the filter, and where is it? do we have to take the projector off the ceiling to do this? I’m afraid we are going to have to send this in…its only a year and a half old….any suggestions?


    My best recommendation: Give InFocus a call. I believe the IN82 is filter free, but even (or especially) if that’s the case, it will accumulate dust inside the box, and that will tend to have it run hotter. A cleaning may be in order. -art

  • marcus

    i have a new room, special for a home theater. size 6,5 meters by 4,5 meters. it gets very dark, no light at all if i want.
    so the projector will be at 5 meters away the wall, and the scrren can be as big as 95″”.
    i want also for everyday use, not buying a tv.
    wich projector you advise me to get?
    pls thanks

    • Marcus – you’ve got to give me some sort of price range, for me to even begin to make any recommendation. -a

  • marcus

    hi, me again,
    how to choose a brand of receiver to combine witha brand o acoustics? does it make any difference…?

    • Greeings Marcus,

      Speakers and receivers – a whole separate game. Receivers in the same general price range will be similar (in general) in terms of sonic capabilities, though some will sound slightly better than others, and they will have different features. Still there are plenty of reviews out there. Far more important are the speakers you choose – that’s where the real difference in sound quality will come from. Speakers are a whole different world, and I strongly suggest you go out and listen to them. Depending on your budget – a home theater shop, or a best buy type place. Take some CD’s etc. with you of the type of music you will be listening to.

      REmember, for those concerned with music, accuracy is important. For those just looking to “rock the house” while watching Transformers, it’s more about power and sub-woofers. Of course any excellent sound system will sound good on movie action, but the higher quality more accurate speakers will sound better on music. One place where there’s a difference to note. For action movie stuff, most people want extra bass, what would be “over the top” for music listening. So choose that subwoofer carefully, if you can. If “rock the house” is your thing, but music is too, try for a subwoofer that is powerful, yet clean – not “boomy”. A boomy bass will better shake your walls, but it will tend to muddy up a lot of music. If you’re not a critical listener of music, though, or don’t plan much of it, probably not to worry too much about it. -art

  • I recently installed an IN82 projector in my screening room and I love it!
    If I were to be picky, I’d say the only thing it needs is a wider-angle lens. Due to the placement of support columns in this building, I can only get the projector back about 13′, giving me a 92″ image. Since our screen is 154″, obviously we’re underutilizing it. But since I picked this projector up at auction and paid only $1425 for it with 82 hours on it, I’ve no complaint really.

    With regard to DLP’s rainbow effect, I’d more correctly call it ‘strobing’. What’s going on is that when the frame is predominantly dark, and there’s a small area of white in frame, if your eye happens to dart to one side, you’ll see a strobe effect, much like you will with neon lights running on AC line power–the light will created a dotted streak that your retina’s persistence will record for a second or so before it fades.
    Now with the DLP color wheel, instead of 120 lamp on/off cycles as with the neon nightlight plugged into a wall socket, the color wheel is changing the color of the light beam at some fixed rate. If you view it statically, it sums to white light and shows the true colors of the signal presented. But if the eye darts rapidly about, the color wheel’s sequence of RGB lenses will be laid out in a streak, trailing the eye’s motion.
    Try it. Just shift your gaze left and right as rapidly as you can while watching a space scene or something with dark frame and a small area of light. You should be able to see the color rainbow after images.

    • Hi Mark,

      Hey, I didn’t name it, it’s been the “rainbow effect” for a long time. That said, one does not have to “dart” with ones eyes, or move them at all, if the bright object is moving across a a dark background. Best I can tell, there are two different issues that result in RBE. One relates to the eye itself, and is helped, some say, by processing at faster speeds – frame interpolation. Just repeating the frame (as opposed to creative frame interpolation). Thus, going to 48hz instead of 24, or getting up to 96 or 120hz seems to help some with the one type. I think that may be the type more related to moving your eyes quickly (which I can do, and force rainbows). I apparently am mostly bothered by the more “traditional” RBE. I’m likely to see the same amount of RBE whether watching at 24fps, or 96fps. -art

  • George

    Great review Art,

    Bought my in83 from below great range of infocus gear.