The input panel on the back is, as noted, recessed. The HC6800 has two HDMI 1.3 inputs, with Deep Color support, a computer input (standard analog HD15 connector found on monitors and computers), that can alternately used for a component video input, a second component video input (the usual 3 color coded RCA jacks), an S-Video input (standard DIN connector) and a standard composite video input (RCA jack). In addition, there are also an RS-232 for command and control from a room control system or computer, and finally, a 12 volt trigger, for motorized screen control. Of course, there's the power receptacle, and a Kensington Lock slot. A cable cover comes with the projector to hide all the connectors. Missing from the image below is the power cord receptacle, and a hard power switch. both are located below the serial port and kensington lock slot.
Mitsubishi offers a quite reasonable menu system. Hit menu and you get a very small menu bar, with very small icons for each of the main menus. I'm used to most menu systems coming up with one of the major menus already open, and occupying more screen space. As a result, when I'm doing shoots, I often forget to shut that last main menu down. I often don't notice it until I've shot a bunch of images and have to start over. The main menu defaults to staying open all the time. Menus overall are pretty good. Readability is good though text is a little smaller than on some other brands, yet not small enough to be an issue.
My main issue is the different way the Mitsubishi handles your picture choices. Unlike most of the competition, Mitsubishi doesn't have classic "preset color modes" such as Cinema, Dynamic, etc... Instead they offer choices for color temp, and image, that are separate. In that regard it's more like really high end projectors, where you create what you need, instead of having it created (ie. Cinema mode), with you only allowed to tweak it.
Is that a big deal? Not to me. And certainly not for a calibrator, but, if you are winging the setup yourself, and don't have gear to measure, you seem to start out a little further behind the curve, than with most other projectors. Still, once you are set up, in the User mode, it becomes only an issue of more user modes would be nice.
All that considered, everything is there to get the job done just right.
The HC6800 remote has separate buttons for On and Off (press Off twice to shut down), as well as an Auto Position button on the top row. The next two rows provide buttons for each input source.(, HDMI, Computer, Component Video, etc.)
The three user savable memories are accessable from the three buttons on the fourth row. . This is very user friendly. I have our calibrated settings saved and use these to switch between saved modes.
Next are the four arrow keys and center Enter button for navigating the menus.
Moving to the next row: Left side is the Menu button. Then, there is a button to select different Iris options and finally, Aspect ratio change. Next come two more rows, including Contrast Brightness, Color Temp, Gamma, Sharpness and Color (saturation). Basically most features on the Image menu, can be directly accessed without going through the Main and Image menus.
The bottom row on the HC6800 remote control has one button that toggles between controlling the lens' Zoom and Focus (arrow keys handle the actual adjustment), another for controlling the Lens shift, and finally a Noise Reduction button. Zoom and focus come up in fast mode. Hitting the Enter button switches to step by step, for fine tuning.
The remote fits well in the hand, and I like that I can reach most of the buttons I would use, without having to shift my hand, or use two. Hitting any button engages the backlight - moderately bright, but could be brighter.
I also found that there was sufficient spacing in the remote that I could easily find the Menu button as well as the arrow keys/Enter buttons without having to look at the remote.
The HC6800 projector's remote control has averag range. With the projector about 17 feet from the screen and my seating positon 11 feet from the screen (28 feet total), I had only occasional success bouncing the remote's signal off of my screen and wall, to the projector. As a result, I got used to pointing it over my shoulder, at the projector. Of course I'm talking a 28 foot trip for the signal, when I try to bounce off the screen. Also, it seems to me, that high contrast gray screens, like my Firehawk G3, aren't really good surfaces for a good bounce. At slightly shorter total distances, the remote became more reliable. I conclude that if you are using a 100" or 110" screen you should have better luck (mine is 128")!